The best saltwater aquarium test kit for most marine tanks is the API Saltwater Master Test Kit, which covers ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and high range pH across 550 tests for under $30. Reef keepers should pair it with the API Reef Master Test Kit for calcium, alkalinity, and phosphate testing. For higher precision on reef-critical parameters, Hanna Instruments Checkers provide digital readouts that eliminate color-matching guesswork. Every saltwater tank also needs a refractometer for accurate salinity readings.
Saltwater aquariums are less forgiving than freshwater setups when water chemistry drifts. Fish-only with live rock (FOWLR) tanks need basic parameter monitoring, while reef tanks with corals require tracking additional elements that corals consume daily. The right combination of test kits depends entirely on what you’re keeping — and this guide breaks down exactly what you need for each setup.
Quick Picks by Setup
Fish-only saltwater tank: API Saltwater Master Test Kit + refractometer
Beginner reef tank: API Saltwater Master Test Kit + API Reef Master Test Kit + refractometer
Advanced reef tank: API Saltwater + Reef Master Kits + Hanna Checkers (calcium, alkalinity, phosphate) + refractometer + TDS meter for RO/DI
What Saltwater Parameters to Test (and Why Each Matters)
Every parameter you test in a saltwater aquarium serves a specific purpose. Understanding why a parameter matters helps you prioritize which test kits to buy first and how urgently to respond when readings fall outside target ranges.
| Parameter | Target Range | Why It Matters | Required For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | 0 ppm | Toxic to fish and corals at any detectable level — indicates incomplete nitrogen cycle or overstocking | All saltwater tanks |
| Nitrite | 0 ppm | Equally toxic as ammonia — must read zero in established aquariums | All saltwater tanks |
| Nitrate | Below 20 ppm (reef: below 10 ppm) | Fuels nuisance algae and stresses corals at elevated levels | All saltwater tanks |
| pH | 8.1–8.4 | Affects biological processes; rapid swings stress fish and corals more than a slightly off reading | All saltwater tanks |
| Salinity | 1.024–1.026 SG (32–35 PPT) | Maintains osmotic balance — too high or low causes cellular stress | All saltwater tanks |
| Calcium | 400–450 ppm | Consumed by corals, coralline algae, and invertebrates to build skeletal structures | Reef tanks |
| Alkalinity (KH) | 8–12 dKH | Buffers pH stability and provides carbonate for coral calcification | Reef tanks |
| Magnesium | 1,250–1,350 ppm | Prevents calcium and alkalinity from precipitating out of solution — the 'silent partner' | Reef tanks |
| Phosphate | Below 0.03 ppm (reef) | Excess phosphate feeds algae and inhibits coral skeletal growth | Reef tanks |
Ammonia
0 ppm
Toxic to fish and corals at any detectable level — indicates incomplete nitrogen cycle or overstocking
All saltwater tanks
Nitrite
0 ppm
Equally toxic as ammonia — must read zero in established aquariums
All saltwater tanks
Nitrate
Below 20 ppm (reef: below 10 ppm)
Fuels nuisance algae and stresses corals at elevated levels
All saltwater tanks
pH
8.1–8.4
Affects biological processes; rapid swings stress fish and corals more than a slightly off reading
All saltwater tanks
Salinity
1.024–1.026 SG (32–35 PPT)
Maintains osmotic balance — too high or low causes cellular stress
All saltwater tanks
Calcium
400–450 ppm
Consumed by corals, coralline algae, and invertebrates to build skeletal structures
Reef tanks
Alkalinity (KH)
8–12 dKH
Buffers pH stability and provides carbonate for coral calcification
Reef tanks
Magnesium
1,250–1,350 ppm
Prevents calcium and alkalinity from precipitating out of solution — the 'silent partner'
Reef tanks
Phosphate
Below 0.03 ppm (reef)
Excess phosphate feeds algae and inhibits coral skeletal growth
Reef tanks
Zero Means Zero
Ammonia and nitrite must always read 0 ppm in an established saltwater aquarium. Any detectable amount indicates a problem — either the tank hasn’t finished cycling, something died and is decomposing, or the bioload exceeds the filtration capacity. Act immediately if either reading appears.
Liquid Test Kits: The Foundation for Every Saltwater Tank
Liquid reagent test kits from API are the most popular starting point for saltwater aquarium testing. Each kit bundles multiple tests into one box with color comparison cards, test tubes, and enough reagent for hundreds of individual tests. Liquid test kits cost more upfront than test strips but deliver significantly more accurate readings — especially for ammonia, where the difference between 0 ppm and 0.25 ppm matters.
API Saltwater Master Test Kit vs. API Reef Master Test Kit
The API Saltwater Master Test Kit and API Reef Master Test Kit sound similar but test completely different parameters. Understanding which covers what — and whether you need one or both — is the most common question new saltwater keepers ask.
| API Saltwater Master Test Kit | API Reef Master Test Kit | |
|---|---|---|
| Parameters Tested | High Range pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate | Calcium, Alkalinity (KH), Phosphate, Nitrate |
| Total Tests Included | ~550 tests | ~490 tests |
| Designed For | All saltwater aquariums | Reef aquariums with corals |
| Overlap | Nitrate (shared with Reef Kit) | Nitrate (shared with Saltwater Kit) |
| Buy This If | You have any saltwater tank | You keep corals or plan to add them |
The API Saltwater Master Test Kit is the one kit every marine aquarium owner needs. The API Reef Master Test Kit is an add-on for reef keepers — it doesn’t replace the Saltwater Kit because it doesn’t test ammonia, nitrite, or pH.
API Saltwater Master Test Kit
The API Saltwater Master Test Kit tests the four most critical parameters for fish health in saltwater aquariums: high range pH (7.4–8.8), ammonia (0–8 ppm), nitrite (0–5 ppm), and nitrate (0–160 ppm). The kit includes 6 bottles of liquid reagent, 4 glass test tubes with caps, and a laminated color comparison card. At roughly 550 tests per kit, the API Saltwater Master Test Kit provides months of weekly testing for under $30.
The high range pH test is the key reason to buy the saltwater-specific version rather than the freshwater kit. Saltwater aquariums run at pH 8.1–8.4, which falls outside the range of the standard pH test (6.0–7.6) included in API’s freshwater kit. Without the high range test, your pH readings will simply max out and give you no useful information about where your pH actually sits.
API Saltwater Master Test Kit
- Tests high range pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate — the four essential saltwater parameters
- Approximately 550 tests per kit — months of weekly testing in one box
- Includes 6 reagent bottles, 4 glass test tubes, and laminated color card
- High range pH test reads 7.4–8.8, designed specifically for marine water chemistry
- Liquid reagents deliver more accurate readings than test strips
- Color card includes troubleshooting guidance for out-of-range results
Why we recommend it: The API Saltwater Master Test Kit is the single most important test kit for any saltwater aquarium. It covers the parameters that determine whether your fish live or die — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH — at a per-test cost that's hard to beat. Every saltwater keeper should own this kit from day one.
API Reef Master Test Kit
The API Reef Master Test Kit tests four parameters that corals and calcifying invertebrates consume: calcium (20–500 ppm), carbonate hardness / alkalinity (0–300 ppm / 0–16.8 dKH), phosphate (0–10 ppm), and nitrate (0–160 ppm). The kit includes 7 reagent bottles, 2 color comparison cards, and 4 test tubes.
Calcium and alkalinity are consumed by stony corals (LPS and SPS), coralline algae, and calcifying invertebrates like clams and snails. Without regular testing, these parameters can drop below levels needed for healthy growth — or spike dangerously if you’re dosing supplements without monitoring. Phosphate testing matters because elevated phosphate inhibits coral calcification and fuels nuisance algae even when nitrate appears controlled.
API Reef Master Test Kit
- Tests calcium, alkalinity (KH), phosphate, and nitrate — the four reef-critical parameters
- Approximately 490 tests per kit
- Includes 7 reagent bottles, 2 color cards, and 4 test tubes
- Calcium test reads 20–500 ppm to cover the full range for reef aquariums
- Alkalinity test displays in both ppm and dKH for easy reference
- Phosphate test detects levels as low as 0.25 ppm
Why we recommend it: The API Reef Master Test Kit gives reef keepers essential visibility into the parameters that directly affect coral growth and health. Pair this with the API Saltwater Master Test Kit and you'll have liquid tests covering all eight core saltwater aquarium parameters for around $50 total.
API Kit Accuracy Tip
Shake the nitrate #2 reagent bottle vigorously for at least 30 seconds before use — the reagent settles between tests. Under-shaking is the most common cause of falsely low nitrate readings with API kits and leads many aquarists to believe their nitrate is lower than it actually is.
Hanna Instruments Checkers: Digital Precision for Reef Tanks
Hanna Instruments Checkers are handheld digital colorimeters that eliminate the guesswork of matching liquid test results against a color card. Each Hanna Checker measures one specific parameter using a cuvette and reagent packet — you add your water sample, insert the reagent, and the Checker displays a precise numerical reading on its LCD screen.
Hanna Checkers cost more per test than API liquid kits ($0.50–$1.00 per reagent packet vs. pennies per API test). The tradeoff is precision: where API’s calcium test might tell you “somewhere between 400 and 440 ppm,” a Hanna Calcium Checker reads “418 ppm.” That precision matters when you’re dosing two-part solutions or running a calcium reactor and need to fine-tune dosing rates.
Hanna Instruments Checkers for Reef Aquariums
| Parameter Tested | Calcium | Alkalinity (dKH) | Phosphate (ultra low range) | Magnesium |
| Measurement Range | 200–600 ppm | 0–300 ppm | 0–200 ppb | 1,000–1,800 ppm |
| Resolution | 1 ppm | 1 ppm | 1 ppb | 1 ppm |
| Ideal Reef Range | 400–450 ppm | 8–12 dKH | Below 30 ppb (0.03 ppm) | 1,250–1,350 ppm |
| Reagent Type | Powder packets | Liquid reagent | Powder packets | Liquid reagent |
| Check Price | Check Price | Check Price | Check Price |
- Parameter Tested
- Calcium
- Measurement Range
- 200–600 ppm
- Resolution
- 1 ppm
- Ideal Reef Range
- 400–450 ppm
- Reagent Type
- Powder packets
- Parameter Tested
- Alkalinity (dKH)
- Measurement Range
- 0–300 ppm
- Resolution
- 1 ppm
- Ideal Reef Range
- 8–12 dKH
- Reagent Type
- Liquid reagent
- Parameter Tested
- Phosphate (ultra low range)
- Measurement Range
- 0–200 ppb
- Resolution
- 1 ppb
- Ideal Reef Range
- Below 30 ppb (0.03 ppm)
- Reagent Type
- Powder packets
- Parameter Tested
- Magnesium
- Measurement Range
- 1,000–1,800 ppm
- Resolution
- 1 ppm
- Ideal Reef Range
- 1,250–1,350 ppm
- Reagent Type
- Liquid reagent
Which Hanna Checkers to Buy First
Not every reef keeper needs all four Hanna Checkers right away. If you’re building your testing arsenal gradually, prioritize based on which parameters benefit most from precision:
Hanna Checker Priority Order
- Alkalinity (HI755) — alkalinity swings crash pH and kill corals faster than any other parameter shift. Precise tracking prevents overdosing two-part solutions
- Phosphate (HI774) — the ultra-low-range Checker detects phosphate in parts per billion, catching levels that API's test reads as 'zero' but are still high enough to fuel algae and inhibit coral growth
- Calcium (HI758) — knowing your exact calcium level lets you fine-tune dosing and catch depletion before corals slow their growth
- Magnesium (HI783) — magnesium moves slowly and only needs testing every 1–2 weeks. API's magnesium test (sold separately) provides adequate accuracy for most reef keepers
Hanna Checker Running Costs
Hanna reagent refill packs typically cost $10–$15 for 25 tests. Budget roughly $0.50–$1.00 per individual test. Most reef keepers test alkalinity and calcium 2–3 times per week and phosphate weekly, which means a 25-pack of reagents lasts 2–3 months per parameter.
Salinity Testing: Refractometer vs. Digital Meter
Salinity is the one parameter unique to saltwater aquariums, and it needs its own dedicated instrument. Swing-arm hydrometers are cheap but notoriously inaccurate due to micro-bubble adhesion and plastic fatigue over time. A refractometer is the gold standard for salinity measurement in the hobby — it’s what most experienced reef keepers use and recommend.
Refractometer (Recommended)
The Agriculture Solutions Salinity Refractometer measures salinity on two scales: specific gravity (SG) and parts per thousand (PPT). The refractometer works by bending light through a water sample on a prism — you look through the eyepiece and read the salinity value where the blue/white boundary line falls on the scale. Automatic temperature compensation (ATC) adjusts for ambient temperature differences, so readings stay consistent whether you test in a cold garage or warm living room.
Agriculture Solutions Salinity Refractometer
- Dual-scale display reads both Specific Gravity (SG) and parts per thousand (PPT)
- Automatic Temperature Compensation (ATC) for consistent readings across environments
- Durable chromium construction — built to last years of regular use
- Includes hard carrying case, dropper pipette, calibration screwdriver, and cleaning cloth
- Only requires 2–3 drops of water per test — fast and simple to use
- No batteries required — purely optical measurement
Why we recommend it: A refractometer is the most reliable way to measure salinity in a saltwater aquarium, and the Agriculture Solutions model delivers accurate readings with ATC at an affordable price. The included hard case and accessories make it ready to use out of the box. Calibrate it with 35 PPT calibration fluid for the most accurate saltwater readings.
Calibration Matters
Calibrate your refractometer with 35 PPT calibration fluid, not distilled water. Distilled water calibration is technically valid but introduces a slight error at saltwater concentrations because the refractive index curve isn’t perfectly linear. Most local fish stores sell calibration fluid, or you can order it online for a few dollars.
Digital pH and Salinity Meter
For reef keepers who want continuous digital readings or prefer a numeric display over a refractometer’s optical scale, a digital pH and salinity meter offers a convenient two-in-one solution. This combo meter simultaneously displays pH, salinity, TDS, EC, and temperature on a backlit LCD — no mode switching required.
Digital pH and Salinity Meter
- Simultaneous display of pH, salinity, TDS, EC, and temperature — no mode switching
- Enhanced salinity sensor optimized for the 30–38 PPT range used in marine aquariums
- Backlit LCD screen for easy reading in low-light conditions near the tank
- Includes 4.00, 7.00, and 10.01 pH buffer powders for three-point calibration
- Works for reef tanks, saltwater aquariums, koi ponds, and saltwater pools
- Measures five parameters with one device — reduces clutter in your test kit drawer
Why we recommend it: The digital pH and salinity meter is a useful secondary tool for quick spot-checks, especially for hobbyists who find refractometers difficult to read. The simultaneous multi-parameter display saves time during routine checks. Keep in mind that a refractometer remains more reliable for primary salinity measurement — use this meter as a convenient complement.
RO/DI Water Monitoring: TDS Meter
Reverse osmosis/deionization (RO/DI) systems produce the purified water used for mixing salt and topping off evaporation in saltwater aquariums. A TDS meter (total dissolved solids) tells you whether your RO/DI system is producing clean water — or if membranes and resin cartridges need replacing.
RO/DI water should read 0 TDS. A reading of 1–3 TDS is acceptable, but anything above 5 TDS means your system is passing silicates, phosphates, chloramines, or heavy metals into your aquarium. These contaminants fuel nuisance algae, stress corals, and undermine the water quality you’re working so hard to maintain through testing.
MEXYBE 4-in-1 TDS Meter
- Measures TDS (0–9,999 ppm), EC, and temperature (°C and °F) — four readings from one device
- High-precision titanium alloy probe for consistent, accurate TDS readings
- Factory calibrated and ready to use out of the box — no setup required
- Auto-lock and hold function for easy recording of measurements
- Backlit LCD screen 25% larger than standard models for clear visibility
- Auto-off after 2 minutes to conserve battery life
Why we recommend it: A TDS meter is the simplest way to monitor your RO/DI system's output quality. Test the water coming out of each stage to identify exactly which cartridge needs replacing — saving you from changing all filters when only one is exhausted. At this price point, every saltwater keeper running an RO/DI system should own one.
Test Each Stage Separately
Use your TDS meter to test water after each RO/DI stage — after the sediment filter, after the RO membrane, and after the DI resin. This pinpoints exactly which cartridge is exhausted rather than replacing everything at once. Your RO membrane is spent when post-membrane TDS rises above 10% of your source water TDS. Your DI resin is spent when post-DI TDS rises above 0.
Which Test Kits Do You Actually Need?
The right testing setup depends on what lives in your tank. Here’s what to buy for each common saltwater aquarium type:
Fish-Only with Live Rock (FOWLR)
FOWLR tanks need monitoring for parameters that directly affect fish health. Corals aren’t present, so calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium testing is unnecessary.
FOWLR Testing Essentials
- API Saltwater Master Test Kit — covers ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH
- Salinity refractometer — essential for every saltwater tank
- TDS meter (if running RO/DI) — monitors source water purity
- Total cost: approximately $50–$65
Beginner Reef Tank (Soft Corals and LPS)
Beginner reef tanks with soft corals (mushrooms, zoanthids, leathers) and LPS (hammers, torches, frogspawn) need the basics plus reef-specific parameter monitoring. Soft corals are more tolerant of parameter swings, but LPS corals consume calcium and alkalinity and benefit from regular tracking.
Beginner Reef Testing Essentials
- API Saltwater Master Test Kit — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH
- API Reef Master Test Kit — calcium, alkalinity, phosphate, nitrate
- Salinity refractometer — accurate salinity is critical for coral health
- TDS meter (if running RO/DI) — clean source water prevents algae problems
- Total cost: approximately $80–$100
Advanced Reef Tank (SPS Corals)
SPS corals (Acropora, Montipora, Stylophora) demand stable, precise water chemistry. Small parameter swings that soft corals tolerate can bleach or kill SPS. This is where Hanna Checkers earn their investment — the precision difference between “calcium is somewhere around 420” and “calcium is 418 ppm” matters when you’re dialing in daily two-part dosing or running a calcium reactor.
Advanced Reef Testing Arsenal
- API Saltwater Master Test Kit — ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH baseline
- Hanna HI755 Alkalinity Checker — most critical parameter for SPS stability
- Hanna HI758 Calcium Checker — precise calcium tracking for dosing adjustments
- Hanna HI774 Phosphate Ultra Low Range Checker — detects phosphate levels API kits read as zero
- Hanna HI783 Magnesium Checker — ensures magnesium supports calcium/alkalinity balance
- Salinity refractometer — non-negotiable for any saltwater tank
- TDS meter — essential for verifying RO/DI water quality
- Total cost: approximately $300–$350
Build Your Arsenal Over Time
You don’t need to buy everything at once. Start with the API Saltwater Master Test Kit and a refractometer. Add the API Reef Master Test Kit when you add your first corals. Then upgrade to Hanna Checkers one at a time as your coral collection grows and precision becomes more important. Alkalinity and phosphate are the first two Checkers most reef keepers add.
Saltwater Aquarium Testing Schedule
Consistent testing catches parameter drift before it harms your livestock. Testing frequency depends on your tank’s maturity, stocking level, and whether you’re dosing supplements.
| Parameter | New Tank (Cycling) | Established FOWLR | Established Reef |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ammonia | Daily | Weekly | Weekly |
| Nitrite | Daily | Weekly | Weekly |
| Nitrate | Daily | Weekly | Weekly |
| pH | Daily | Weekly | 2–3x per week |
| Salinity | Daily | Before water changes | Before water changes + top-offs |
| Calcium | Not needed | Not needed | 2–3x per week |
| Alkalinity | Not needed | Not needed | 2–3x per week (daily if dosing) |
| Magnesium | Not needed | Not needed | Weekly to biweekly |
| Phosphate | Not needed | Monthly | Weekly |
| TDS (RO/DI) | Each batch | Each batch | Each batch |
Ammonia
Daily
Weekly
Weekly
Nitrite
Daily
Weekly
Weekly
Nitrate
Daily
Weekly
Weekly
pH
Daily
Weekly
2–3x per week
Salinity
Daily
Before water changes
Before water changes + top-offs
Calcium
Not needed
Not needed
2–3x per week
Alkalinity
Not needed
Not needed
2–3x per week (daily if dosing)
Magnesium
Not needed
Not needed
Weekly to biweekly
Phosphate
Not needed
Monthly
Weekly
TDS (RO/DI)
Each batch
Each batch
Each batch
Test More Often After Changes
Increase testing frequency after adding new livestock, changing salt brands, adjusting dosing rates, medicating, or performing large water changes. These events shift water chemistry, and catching the drift early prevents cascading problems. Return to your normal schedule once parameters stabilize for a week.
Tips for Accurate Test Results
Inaccurate test results are worse than no test results — they give you false confidence that your water is fine when it isn’t, or cause unnecessary panic and overcorrection when parameters are actually stable. Follow these practices to get readings you can trust.
Testing Best Practices
- Shake reagent bottles thoroughly before use — especially API nitrate bottle #2, which settles between tests and gives falsely low readings if not shaken for 30+ seconds
- Follow timing instructions precisely — reading a test too early or too late changes the result. Set a phone timer rather than estimating
- Compare colors under natural daylight or a daylight-balanced light — incandescent and LED aquarium lighting shifts color perception and leads to misreads
- Rinse test tubes with RO/DI water between tests — residual reagent from previous tests contaminates the next reading
- Store test kits away from heat and direct sunlight — reagents degrade faster when exposed to UV light or temperatures above 85°F
- Check expiration dates on reagent bottles — expired reagents produce unreliable results. API kits typically last 3–5 years when stored properly
- Log every test result with date, time, and any recent changes (water change, dosing, new fish). Trends over time reveal problems that a single reading can't
Keep a Testing Log
Whether you use a notebook, spreadsheet, or an app like Aquarimate, logging test results over time is far more valuable than any individual reading. A calcium reading of 410 ppm means nothing in isolation — but a trend showing calcium dropping from 440 to 420 to 410 over three weeks tells you your dosing rate isn’t keeping up with coral consumption, and you can adjust before corals start showing stress.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need both the API Saltwater and Reef Master Test Kits?
The API Saltwater Master Test Kit covers ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and high range pH — the four parameters every saltwater tank needs monitored. The API Reef Master Test Kit covers calcium, alkalinity (KH), phosphate, and nitrate. If you keep corals, you need both kits because they test completely different parameters. Fish-only tank owners can start with just the Saltwater Master Test Kit.
Are Hanna Checkers worth the upgrade over API liquid test kits?
Hanna Checkers provide digital readouts with higher precision than visual color matching, which matters most for calcium, alkalinity, and phosphate — parameters where small differences affect coral health. Most reef keepers start with API liquid kits and add Hanna Checkers for specific parameters as their coral collection grows. For a fish-only saltwater tank, API liquid kits provide all the accuracy you need.
Can I use freshwater test kits on a saltwater aquarium?
The API Freshwater Master Test Kit uses a standard-range pH test (6.0-7.6), which won't read saltwater pH accurately since marine tanks run at 8.1-8.4. Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate reagents work the same in both water types, but you need the high-range pH test included in the API Saltwater Master Test Kit. Using a freshwater kit for pH will give you readings that max out and appear identical even when pH is actually changing.
How often should I test my saltwater aquarium water?
Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH weekly in established saltwater tanks. Test daily during cycling and after adding new livestock. Reef keepers should test calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium weekly — or more often when dosing supplements, since overcorrecting can crash pH or precipitate calcium. Salinity should be checked before every water change and top-off.
Why does my refractometer give different readings than my hydrometer?
Refractometers measure salinity by bending light through the water sample, while swing-arm hydrometers measure buoyancy. Hydrometers are prone to micro-bubble adhesion on the swing arm, which artificially raises readings. Refractometers are more accurate and consistent, which is why most experienced saltwater keepers recommend switching to a refractometer early on. Calibrate your refractometer with 35 PPT calibration fluid (not distilled water) for the most accurate saltwater readings.
What TDS reading should my RO/DI water have?
RO/DI water for a saltwater aquarium should read 0 TDS (total dissolved solids). A reading of 1-3 TDS is acceptable, but anything above 5 TDS means your RO membrane or DI resin needs replacing. High-TDS source water introduces silicates, phosphates, and heavy metals that fuel nuisance algae and stress corals. Testing TDS before and after each RO/DI stage helps you identify which cartridge is exhausted.
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Written by
FTW Team
The FishTankWorld editorial team brings together experienced aquarists to help you succeed in the hobby.